From Pakistan to Xinjiang – The road from Islamabad, the most industralised city in Pakistan, to its generous friend, China, is the treacherous Karakoram Highway. It is the tallest paved highway in the world, passing through the mighty Karakoram mountain range, second only to the Himalayas. With a maximum elevation of 4,714m at the Babusar Pass, it runs higher than Europe’s Matterhorn. The Karakoram Highway allows China strategic access to the Arabian Sea, as part of the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor. On flatter areas, it is an excellent road. However, driving conditions worsen sharply between the rocky geography of Mansehra and Chilas, where the only thing that cuts the mountains is the powerful Indus River.
Starting at in Islamabad, we rented a car with a driver. As you embark on the trip, be aware that drivers are often of a low social caste. As you settle on your accommodation every night, be sure to check on your driver’s living conditions. Often, they are provided with nothing but a dirty rug to sleep on in the garage. A well-rested driver is a safe drive-trip.
You can rent a car without a driver, but be cautious as the road will be the toughest and one of the most dangerous that you’ve ever driven. With narrow bends and slippery slopes, a lack of familiarity or delay in braking could hurl you head-first into the Indus River. We were witness to 3 such accidents. Long-story-short, get a driver!
Our first stop is Abbottabad – home of Osama Bin Laden. Opposite in the above picture is the area that used to be the residence of Bin Laden, the one where he was killed American Navy SEALs. The original residence has since been demolished to avoid becoming a macabre tourist attraction. We grab a quick meal of Mutton Biryani and hit the road.
From the town of Abbottabad, there are two ways to head north. You can take a steep shortcut via the Mansehra-Naran-Jalkhad-Chilas road that cuts through the Babusar Pass, open only late-summer when the ice melts; or you can continue via the longer Karakoram Highway.
The shorter way up north was still closed when we were heading north, so we drove through the Karakoram Highway instead.
The road to Chilas is long and eventful. Along this uneven road, you find shepherds moving their goats and sheep. They do this daily, allowing their livestock to have sufficient grass to munch on. The terrain is mountainous, so everyone – and every animal, share the same road.
The next leg is the most brutal section of the Karakoram Highway, and is one marked with thousands of fatalities. It will eventually get better, but not before one negotiates the dangerous bends, falling rocks, incoming large trucks, and the occasional military vehicle. We went past two unfortunate incidents – a bus that slipped off into the Indus River, as well as a crashed truck. It was said the truck driver fell asleep and rammed into the rocks. Fortunately for him, it was towards the rocks that he fell asleep on, and not the other side of the road.
After finally clearing the deadly, mountainous passages, we arrived close to the town of Chilas. This is where the roads begin to get flat, well paved, and far less dangerous. From here to Gilgit, a relatively smooth and easy journey lies ahead.
Gilgit is a pleasant city and the capital of the province ‘Gilgit – Baltistan’. It is a great place to grow cherries, and is the last commercial base for adventurous climbers and trekkers who intend to attempt the second highest peak in the world K2, as well as Pakistan’s world-renowned 21-day Baltoro glacier hikes. We dropped to say hi to Mr Muhammad Yaqoob, a selfless man who decided to start Madina Hotel 2. Mr Yaqoob aims to create jobs for young Pakistanis, keeping them busy and exposed to foreigners, thus well away from the influence of the Taleban.
From Gilgit, the northbound drive along the Karakoram Highway brings us through the intersection of three great mountain ranges – the Himalayas, Karakoram, and the Hindu-Kush Mountain Range. There are many treks available along the way for the avid trekker – Ultar Sar, Diran Peak, and my personal favourite – Rakaposhi mountain. This is the domain of hilly meadows, glaciers, avalanches and donkeys.
We stop the town of Hussaini. Here lies Borith Lake, which is a rather pleasant lake if one has a four-wheel drive that allows can climb steep 60 degree inclines. The other reason to drop Hussaini is for the Suspension Bridge. Known as the most dangerous bridge in the world, it bridges the western land of Hunza with the eastern Zar Abad region. Made from ropes and planks, the bridge is very old, and has to survive constant strong winds and rain. It has been built and rebuilt multiple times, and while one can relatively safely cross the more reinforced version today, a few meters away lie the remnants of the older bridge, now a mess of ropes.
Departing from Hussaini, the highway slowly climbs to the edge of Pakistan. In this mountainous wilderness, signboards in Urdu, Chinese and English tell us that we will soon be arriving in Chinese Xinjiang.
We stop a few hundred meters from the Khunjerab Pass. This is the highest paved order crossing in the world. You can see the border crossing in the distance that signifies the end of the Pakistani border and start of China. Aside from the gigantic concrete structure, there is nothing much that differentiates the areas between these two nations.
We alight from our car and waltz over the border. We had about 10 minutes of the Khunjerab Pass to ourselves, before a tour bus arrives from Chinese Urumqi carrying a busload of local Chinese tourists. Having travelled the last 14 hours just to be here, the jubilant group finally stretches their legs on Pakistani territory. In no time, Chinese and Pakistani mingle and start dancing to Pakistani music. Border soldiers from both sides acknowledge the gathering that is going on and smile. It is apparently, an uncommon sight.
I mentioned earlier that to get from the town of Abbottabad to Chilas, we could choose between taking the longer Karakoram Highway, or go the shorter, highly elevated Babusar Pass. Earlier in our trip, the Babusar Pass was still closed due to adverse conditions. After a week spent in the north, we found out that the pass was finally open, and we could take it while heading back to Islamabad.
As we make our way towards the Babusar Pass, the highest point of the trip, we drive through massive ponds – areas of relatively flatter ground, perfectly position to collect melted ice. The water levels can get up to waist deep, so be sure to keep your windows wound up to avoid splash from getting into the vehicle.
As we continue the ascent, we drive through ice corridors. Mind you, these are two-way lanes. It will be quite an untimely situation to find another vehicle coming straight towards you. Someone will have to do the reversing on this slippery incline.
We finally arrive at Babusar Pass. It has been a tiring climb, but what a spectacle to behold!
It is a relatively uneventful drive back down to Islamabad, and that concludes our one and a half week road trip through the Karakoram Highway!
Northern Pakistan, where the Karakoram Highway is located, lies at a very high altitude. The mountainous terrain allows small fractions of the Taleban to operate here, while most reside in Afghani territory. The region used to depend on thriving international tourism as its largest industry, before the infamous Osama Bin Laden killing. Locals are wary of the Taleban and warn their children to stay away from such influence. It is difficult however, as jobs are scarce and the allure of an ideological cause is strong. We found locals here to be the most hospitable of anywhere we had travelled before. At least in the Hunza region, they believe that welcoming guests is a symbol of charity. We have been invited to many homes strangers, two of which we accepted and were given no less than a traditional feast.
Travelling the Karakoram Highway is a great way to experience the vastness of Pakistan’s majestic wilderness. Safe Travels!
More Travel Articles for: 1. Philippines 2. Indonesia 3. Malaysia 4. Thailand 5. Vietnam 6. Singapore 7. Taiwan 8. Cambodia 9. Georgia 10.Greece 11.Europe 12.Latin America
Recommended Places in: 1. Philippines 2. Indonesia 3. Malaysia 4. Thailand 5. Vietnam 6. Singapore 7. Taiwan 8. Greece